Saturday, March 28, 2015

ITS NOT ALL BLACK OR WHITE. ACTUALLY IT IS!

I had actually planned to hire a bike from Kay and ride up to Chiang Rai to see the Wat Rong Khun, aka The White Temple, but decided to hire a car with Alison, and we got chauffeured up there instead. Glad to be off the bikes for a while, and as the recent rain put out the fires and cleared the air, we were able to enjoy the views. Unlike just about every other temple in Thailand, this one is a mere few years old. Construction started in 1997, and according to its creator, artist Ajarn Chalermchai Kositpipat (got that?), it will not be finished until some 60 to 90 years after his death. His stated goal is to build the most beautiful temple in the world, and to show the glory of modern Thai Buddhist arts. He is on the record as aiming to create something on a par with the Taj Mahal or the Angkor Wat. I have visited both of these, and its a lofty goal. I'm not sure he will do it, but he has still created a mind blowing building. He also raised funds for the construction on his own. He did not wish to be dictated to, or even influenced, by governments or wealthy benefactors compromising his artistic freedom. This is his baby. I get that, but I can't say I really understand why the guy has to make such an over the top statement. Isn't less supposed to be more? But I guess that's why he's an artist and I'm an engineer. People aren't queuing to see my work, but then I never expected them to. (But if anyone is interested....). I can see that the point of this artwork is to reinforce the notion that all the bad stuff in this world exists down at our level, and that through truth and beauty we can aspire to, and indeed reach, a state of greater understanding and fulfillment, which may well be the definition of enlightenment itself. Very Buddhist. And to challenge us to take the task on. So the sooner we recognise this and get started, the better for all of us. Wow, heavy, man!

The project suffered a setback last year, when it was significantly damaged in an earthquake. Much of this damage is still evident and is currently being repaired, but I fear the structure will always be susceptible to such events. This is a shame. He should have got a structural engineer on board in the early design stage, but try telling an artist anything, they'd be worse to work with than architects!

Anyway, it's hard to capture the scale and grandeur of the whole catastrophy in a few shots. Equally, it's hard to document the mind boggling attention to detail at the micro level. I bought a book of photographs for that very reason. The exterior of the main building is covered with tiny mirrored glass tiles, cut to shape and embedded in the rendered coating. The inside is covered in hand painted frescoes, which are about as far from traditional as you can get. I spotted Batman, Superman, Elvis, Kung Fu Panda, some of the thingies from Despicable Me, the burning twin towers of the World Trade Centre, and lots of others. No photos were permitted inside, but here are a few snaps of the exterior anyway.













 EEEyew.


This is the toilet block. I kid you not.



Even the traffic bollards out in the street are weird, but I want one!

Now, here is where it gets even more weird. Across town there is another structure called The Black House. Hannibal Lector House might be a more appropriate name for it. Its not a temple, but it is to some extent a counterpoint to the above. All black, dark, evil and generally horrible, and designed by a real nutter. It's where Satan would go for a holiday.







I'd like to say no animals were harmed in the making of this exhibition, but that would just be telling porkies. Just have a bloody look at the joint, talk about the Bone Collector! Creepy Central. I have even more trouble trying to work this one out artistically. Someone must have left the gate open at the local psycho ward. I would rather I hadn't seen it after The White Temple, I thought it was a real downer. We hurried back to Chiang Mai for a drink.

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